In this weekly culinary column, I will be focusing on one dish – giving the reader a quick history of the dish, the classical preparation of it, and of course, my own spin on the classic.

This week I have chosen to cove Bacalhau a Bras – is a traditional Portuguese dish that consists of shredded salt cod, onions and shredded potato. This dish gets fried and then the addition of eggs during the cooking process binds the dish together. Typically, bacalhau a bras is finished with parsley and black olives. The exact origins of the dish are unknown, but it is said to have originated in Bairro Alto, an old quarter of modern day Lisbon.

Classic Bacalhau a Bras

1 lb​Dried salt cod
1½ lbs​Russet potatoes, shredded
1 whole​Onion, sliced thinly
8 large​Eggs, beaten
1 tsp​Salt
1 tsp​Black pepper
4 tbsp​Parsley, chopped
4 oz​Portuguese olive oil
​Oil-cured black olives for garnish

Soak the salt cod for 24 hours, being sure to drain off the water every 4 hours. Once salt cod has sat for 24 hours in its water bath, drain the fish and place into a sauce pot large enough to hold it. Cover the fish with water and bring to a boil. Once boil has been reached, reduce heat to a simmer and simmer until fish starts to flake. Drain the fish and allow to cool before fully flaking. Make sure to discard all the bones that may be in the salt cod. Heat half the oil in a medium-sized saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the shredded potatoes to the pan in batches, making sure not to overcrowd the pan. Cook for roughly 6 minutes a side, or until golden brown. Remove potatoes from the pan and allow to drain on paper towels. In the same pan, add the remaining oil and the sliced onion. Sautee until onions have become caramelized. Once onions have caramelized, add the salt cod and potatoes back to the pan. Reduce heat to low. In a separate bowl, add the eggs, salt, pepper and parsley. Beat the mixture till incorporated. Add the eggs to the pan and allow to cook for roughly 3 minutes, stirring occasionally. Once eggs are cooked, garnish with oil-cured black olives and serve immediately.

Jonathan’s Bacalhau a Bras

1 lb​Dried salt cod
1½ lbs​Yukon gold potatoes, shredded
1 whole​Onion, sliced thinly
8 large​Eggs, beaten
2 whole​Garlic cloves, sliced thinly
1 tsp​Sea salt
1 tsp​Black pepper, freshly cracked
4 tbsp​Parsley, chopped
4 oz​Portuguese olive oil
½ tsp​Red pepper flakes
​Oil-cured black olives for garnish

Soak the salt cod for 24 hours, being sure to drain off the water every 4 hours. Once salt cod has sat for 24 hours in its water bath, drain the fish and place into a sauce pot large enough to hold it. Cover the fish with water and bring to a boil. Once boil has been reached, reduce heat to a simmer and simmer until fish starts to flake. Drain the fish and allow to cool before fully flaking. Make sure to discard all the bones that may be in the salt cod. Heat half the oil in a medium-sized saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the shredded potatoes to the pan in batches, making sure not to overcrowd the pan. Cook for roughly 6 minutes a side, or until golden brown. Remove potatoes from the pan and allow to drain on paper towels. In the same pan, add the remaining oil and the sliced onion. Sautee until onions have begin to caramelize – add the garlic and red pepper flakes and allow the onions to fully caramelize. Once onions have caramelized, add the salt cod and potatoes back to the pan. Reduce heat to low. In a separate bowl, add the eggs, salt, pepper and parsley. Beat the mixture till incorporated. Add the eggs to the pan and allow to cook for roughly 3 minutes, stirring occasionally. Once eggs are cooked, garnish with oil-cured black olives and serve immediately.

Whether you choose to prepare the classic, my twist or your own interpretation, remember that food is about bringing people together and that the act of cooking is about caring and as long as your heart is in the dish you prepare, the people you are cooking for will appreciate it (and you).

If you have any questions for me or would like to see me cover any particular dish in this column, feel free to write me, care of this publication. From my kitchen to yours, it is my pleasure to give you a peek into the mind of a chef. Thank You

Jonathan Jolicoeur is a chef at A Tavola – an Italian restaurant on Church Street in Winchester – which focuses on “farm to table” style of cooking. Jonathan was born in Somerville, lives in Woburn and has a degree from Le Cordon Bleu College of Culinary Arts.